Buenos Aires continued…
One of our favorite treats in Argentina is the Alfajor, a cookie sandwich with dulce de leche between the cookies. You can find them in double or triple layers, and often glazed in chocolate. In Buenos Aires we had one of our best of the trip, glazed like a donut and stuffed with rich caramelly dulce de leche.
We were sad about the prospect of spending Thanksgiving far away from our families and friends, but were determined to make the best of it. We splurged a bit on some quality ingredients and enjoyed a beautiful evening on our balcony over a bottle of wine and a baked ziti. And for these simple things we were very grateful.
One of our favorite experiences in BsAs was the polo match we went to. Neither of us had watched polo before but we caught onto the rules pretty easily and loved it. The intensity and speed with which the players gallop across the field is enthralling, and their accuracy with their mallet is unbelievable.
Towards the end of the match a massive storm cloud rolled over the stadium and poured rain on us as we walked home. We were swept up in childlike glee as we got drenched from head to toe, soggy socks and soaked shirts, all smiles.
Our plans to leave Buenos Aires by ferry were put on hold due to weather. We arrived at the ferry terminal midmorning, excited for the 1 hour crossing to Colonia, Uruguay to begin our tour of the Uruguayan coast. We then learned the ferry hadn’t yet come back from Colonia because of the high winds. We spent the following 9 hours sitting in the ferry terminal, playing gin rummy and reading until around 8 pm when we decided to stay the night in a hotel and try again the next day.
Luckily, the winds calmed, and we were able to cross to Colonia the following day. Colonia is a small, touristy, seaside town in Uruguay full of cobblestone streets and historical ruins. We had planned on renting a scooter, but we were sorely disappointed to learn a new law had been passed that required a motorcycle license to rent one, so instead we explore the town on foot.
Our time in Punta Del Diablo was made up of lots of beach time and lots of empanadas. One of the vendors on the beach had a stand where she made them fresh to order, rolling out the dough, wrapping up the ingredients, and frying them in front of you.
We rented an awesome little cabin that is representative of the style of homes in the town. Most homes are modern cabins with very blocky outlines, combining interesting modern design with a woodsy feel. And the style of homes fits the landscape perfectly. Punta del Diablo has one of the most unique and beautiful environments I’ve seen. It’s a warm beach town but it has a distinctive foresty appearance with stands of pine trees just steps from the sand.
We took a short day trip to the nearby Casa Pueblo in Punta Ballena. Casa Pueblo is the former home and studio of Uruguayan artist Carlos Paez Vilaro, but is now a hotel and museum full of his artworks.
Our route required us to backtrack to Montevideo for a day to catch our next bus, so we went to the local market where we found a bar that actually carried good beer, a rare find in South America. We enjoyed our pints over a few games of chess.
For dinner in Montevideo we ordered an assortment of grilled meats for two at a traditional parilla (steakhouse). We were shocked that this mountain of meat was meant for two. The feast included a few normal items like ribs, steak, and sausage, but it also featured a few stranger items like throat, intestines, and blood sausage.
To all of our friends and family, Merry Christmas!
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Previous: Morretes, Iguazu & Buenos Aires
Yours in adventure,
Sarah & Denny